Advice on Bloodtracking

Bloodtracking

This article was originally published in the Annual Meeting Catalog of the Verein Deutsch-Drahthaar / Group North America. It is republished here with the permission of the author.

Equipment

You will need several pieces of equipment and supplies to train for blood tracking. These include a blood tracking lead, a blood tracking collar, spray bottles, two or three gallons of blood (from a cow, hog, or deer), surveyor’s marker tape, a rug or towel, meat, and a deer or deer hide.

The blood tracking lead must be at least six meters long. Any longer, and it becomes a hindrance, making it difficult for the handler to work with the dog. Leather is recommended, as it slides around trees and obstacles more easily than nylon rope, which tends to become stiff and snag as it ages.

The lead should have a locking snap. Without a locking mechanism, the snap may catch on branches or brush and release the dog—ruining the tracking effort and potentially disqualifying a test score.

The blood tracking collar should be wide and loose, preventing choking as your dog pulls you through the woods. It should be 2–2.5 inches wide, easily slide over your dog’s head without unbuckling, and hang loosely from the neck. Material is less important than fit.

Spray bottles are used to lay the track. Choose ones with an adjustable nozzle that can produce a straight stream. This makes it easier to control the blood pattern and spot the blood on the ground.

Blood is typically sourced from a butcher, with one steer yielding 3–4 gallons. Once obtained, it quickly coagulates. Break up the clots by squeezing them into smaller pieces until you can no longer grasp them. Then, pour the blood through a vegetable colander to filter out the largest clots. Strain it again using a clean dish rag to remove smaller particles that can clog spray bottles. Store the blood in spray bottles (¾ full) and freeze. Extra blood can go into milk jugs for freezer storage.

Surveyor’s marker tape is essential for marking the trail and makes it easier to detect when the dog veers off-track. This helps handlers focus on reading the dog, not the ground.

Meat serves as a reward after a successful track. It doesn’t need to be fancy—hot dogs or bologna work fine.

While a whole deer is difficult to store or carry, a deer hide is more practical. However, tanned hides lose much of their scent. A good compromise is a fresh (green) hide wrapped around a five-gallon bucket and secured with drywall screws. It simulates a full deer’s mass and scent while being more manageable.

Laying a Blood Track

Begin by marking the trail using surveyor’s tape every 5 to 10 yards. This makes the training more efficient and easier to monitor. Initially, lay tracks in straight lines without sharp turns or obstacles. Gradually introduce turns, thickets, and other complexities as the dog becomes more proficient.

Start the track by disturbing ground debris in a two-foot circle, then apply 6–10 squirts of blood using a stream—not mist. This creates a strong scent concentration, forcing the dog to follow the trail precisely.

Walk the trail and spray one squirt of blood each time your right foot hits the ground. Maintain consistency in aiming, and always pass tape markers on the same side. This improves your ability to guide and correct your dog.

As training progresses, vary the spray distance and pattern. For longer tracks (up to 400 meters), add a second blood bed around the 200-meter mark.

Training for Blood Tracking

Training varies by dog. Some take to blood tracking naturally, others need encouragement, patience, and repeated success. You cannot force a dog to track. Like water work, it requires interest and mental focus.

Introduce the dog to the hide or frozen deer early. Let them smell it, but don’t allow them to play, chew, or carry it.

Start training with a 50-meter track and let it age for 30 minutes. The goal is to instill focus and confidence. If using a deer hide, place it at the end of the track.

Approach from behind or a parallel path to avoid laying a fresh scent. Heel the dog to just short of the blood bed. Switch from the regular collar to the blood tracking collar and lead. This builds the association between gear and the task.

Bring the dog to the bed, command “down” and “stay,” and encourage sniffing. Say “blood, blood” to reinforce the cue. Walk 15 meters down the track, disturb a blood spot, and repeat the cue. Do not let the dog move.

Return, pick up the lead, and issue the tracking command. Keep the lead short. Allow slack only if the dog works slowly with nose down. If struggling, stay close and point to blood spots. Continue to use verbal encouragement with a calm voice.

Control is important. Dogs should walk—not run—the track. A pulling, rushing dog may have its score reduced. If the dog pulls excessively, plant your feet and let it drag you; do not let go.

Use the tape markers to assess accuracy. If the dog deviates, give a few seconds for self-correction. If unsuccessful, use the “whoa” command, drop the lead, return to the trail, and act out a search. Then heel the dog to the correction spot and restart the track.

Upon reaching the hide or deer, make a celebration out of it. Do not allow the dog to bite or grab it. Sit the dog and reward with meat while repeating “blood, blood.”

Over time, you’ll learn to read your dog. A sudden turn often indicates scent from another animal. A raised head may signal distraction or lost scent. Wandering suggests a missed turn or sparse blood—stop the dog and reorient as needed.

If your dog struggles early on, stay calm. Frustration can set the training back. A helpful trick is dragging a duck while laying the blood track. Start by dragging consistently, then alternate dragging and carrying. Eventually, your dog will rely solely on the blood.

Advance to longer, aged tracks with turns and natural obstacles. Don’t avoid rain—it’s part of real testing conditions and better to train wet than fail wet.